Q&A: Blank Label

I had the rare opportunity to speak with the creative s behind online custom shirt makers Blank Label about their influential and growing label known for it's quality and customer service.

What led to the creation of Blank Label?

Blank Label was created out of spite for the mass-product retail industry. We wanted to create a product that was individually made by our consumer, because wearing something that every other guy bought from H&M wasn't appealing to us. So we decided to create custom dress shirts, and with our custom dress shirt application, individuals are empowered to design their own product. That's something we wish we had, and because no one could provide that for us, we decided to go out and do it ourselves! and we made it affordable. All of our shirts start at $45.

Blank label has a direct relationship with the final consumer since it performs the retail functions. How has this been helpful to business decision making?

Of course! Being able to connect directly with our customers gives us valuable feedback on how we can improve our product and service. That's the only way we can fully satisfy them. Giving them what they want and hearing it from their mouths is more efficient than us trying to guess what they want and testing it.

How long does it take for an order to be ready?

Our turnaround time is 3 weeks from order placement to your door. 4 weeks if you're not US domestic.

Do you guys plan to branch into Suits and Shoes or is Blank Label all about shirts?

We don't have any immediate plans to do either of these things, but they're in the idea bucket. Perhaps that's something to look into 6-12 months down the road. Right now we're just gunning real hard to nail down dress shirts.

5-10yrs down the road, where would you like Blank Label to be in terms of revenue & brand awareness?

That's a big question. As for revenue, who knows! But for brand awareness, we want to be the brand that empowers you to design your own product. We don't really want to be a brand though, but more of a platform that allows consumers to be their own designers.

P.S: Blank Label is offering readers 10% off their next purchase before 12/31/09 with the following promocode "terencesambo."

Q&A : Louis Harris-Tench

London hottie Louis Harris-Tench is a guy you would have come across on MySpace or Youtube cos of his vocal talent. But creative expression is not limited to one form of art. He was a finalist in the recently concluded VMAN model search won by Rico Nieves. Its obvious that this rising star is bound to go places. I caught up with him for a chat:
What motivated to you to enter the competition?

My cousin Rae Hippolyte is a recent graduate photographer from LCF and she told me about it. At first I wasn’t going to bother as the modeling world had yet to show me any love but 5mins before the deadline I changed my mind

What was it like to be amongst the finalists?

It was crazy – I never realized how big the competition was until they were flying the other guys and two cool workers from FORD over from the US. They gave me a brief history on Nick Knight (yes I was naive) and also showed me what previous winners had gone on to do – so it was amazing to be apart of that.

What sort of exposure has the competition given you?

Quite a lot stateside. My name keeps appearing in blogs that I read and they’ll be random scans of me and the other guys: so it’s been pretty cool. A few nice girls have added me on Facebook too – which one will always encourage lol!

If you had to choose between music & modeling what would you choose?

Music would win hands down, everytime. Singing is what I’ve needed to do since I was a kid and that will never change. I am very excited by the modeling industry and the opportunities it can present but it’s quite two-dimensional and lacks a connection that transcends further than the page. I believe it can’t touch you, change you like music can.

Any plans to branch out artistically from modeling asides music, maybe movies?

You won’t see me gracing the screen anytime soon: I know where my strengths lie and running up and down a film set pretending to be Will Smith isn’t happening anytime soon. I’m a poet so I’m doing that on the side. I’m in talks with a publisher at the moment so hopefully something will come of that.

Interview with Simon Spurr

I caught up with designer Simon Spurr the creative behind American luxury menswear label Spurr -who once worked under Hedi Slimane , Calvin Klein and recently served as design director for Ralph Lauren Purple Label- after his presentation at the just concluded NY fashion week for a chat.

If you were to express your spring 2010 collection in one word what would it be?

Elegant

What was the inspiration behind the collection?

Old Helmut Newton Portraits (Helmut Berger) and Alain Delon. I have always drawn from my favorite decade of the 60's when designing SPURR and this season is no different, however, there is slightly more of a 70's tinge running through the color palette.

There was a bit of romantic aura around the spring 2010 collection, do you see yourself as a romantic designer?

I see myself as a modern designer, a purist of some sort. I love clean lines, understated design and high level execution. However, yes, there is more of a romantic feeling to the collection this season. Rather than intentionally projecting a romantic feeling, I was looking to advance the "Elegance" of the collection which may have come across as romantic.

What kind of influence does your cultural roots have on your designs?

Growing up in Britain has definitely influenced my approach to menswear. Britain is an island with many neighbors and therefore much more competitive when it comes to its independence. London especially has had great success over the years in the film, fashion and music industries. Creative people, at the top of their fields have left a rich heritage and archive of images and reference material. We are an American company but I'm very proud of and true to being English.

What has been the biggest challenge for your brand and other luxury men's brands in these hard financial times?

I think that the consumer at all levels has been hit. People are buying less which was why "Fashion’s Night Out" was so important to kick start everyone buying again. I'm a firm believer that men will still buy luxury if it is true luxury. With that I mean, well made, from fine materials, and product that has timeless style. This is where I have been positioning SPURR. We now need to let the modern man know that we are here!

Finally, who is the typical Spurr Man?

The SPURR man is very broad in age and occupation. However, he is self confident, creative, international and humble. He understands style as well as fashion and ultimately embraces a life style (whether it be architecture, furniture or fashion) of modern elegance.

Interview with Ioannis Dimitrousis

I have great respect and admiration for Greek designer Ioannis Dimitrousis' work. The london based designer is one of few gallant soldiers who give men's fashion some pomp and artistic presentation. I had the chance to catch up with him whilst he was getting his collection ready for the upcoming fashion week and he answered a couple of questions.
When did you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer?

While I was in the army doing my services, I started experimenting with some decorative beading on my army shirts! After finishing the army, I studied fashion for a year in Greece and then came to London to study a BA in menswear.

Does your cultural heritage influence your designs?

I think my Mum influences my designs with her knowledge of crochet. Giving a traditional element but with my own knowledge and creativity I am able to change them to a more contemporary look.
Why do you cut the way do ?

Seriously I don’t know why, I draw the lines on the patterns and cut the paper. After joining them together like a puzzle, I then try to shape then into unique form. It just comes naturally. But I wonder is just there already in my mind?

There's an interesting mix of fabrics in both your Men and Women’s collections, tell me a bit more why you use these eclectic fabrics?

I like going shopping for fabrics. Whenever I go, I spend hours and hours until I decide on the ones I like but I can never make up my mind, so I take more time than I should! Also some of the fabrics I use are vintage, which I usually find on my travels.

If you were to choose between menswear and women's what would you choose?

It is like asking a mother to choose between her son and daughter which one would she kill? You either kill them both or neither. Although there is more of a demand for Womenswear than there is for Menswear.

Any words of advice to young people with dreams of being designers someday?

Work hard and follow your dream. Nothing in life comes easy and if it did, then you won't know what success means. You will only succeed when you struggle to get to the top and remain on top.

Q&A: Kyung Hwa Kim

South Korean menswear designer Kyung Hwa Kim is one of the bright stars for the future, she recently graduated top of her course with first class honors in Fashion design technology at the London college of fashion and won Asos's ltd 100 edition menswear award. I had the chance to interview her and got to know her a lot better.

What would you consider as your greatest achievement in your fashion career so far?

I can't say one particular achievement. I am just happy to do Menswear with my soul, originality and passion. I wish my designs to end up in someone's wardrobe and being a part of his life.

How did the experience you got working with JW Anderson, Ioannis Dimitrousis and Thomas Pink assist you in your graduate collection?

I learned a lot from there, how real fashion industry is going on. In particular, I have skilled pattern cutting. At the early time, I thought 'Designing fashion' require a true understanding of garment structure therefore, pattern cutting and making is very important in fashion, especially Menswear. I was so attracted by great knowledge of patterns on paper. In my graduate collection, I had lots of pattern cutting experiment to create new silhouette.

You recently graduated top in your class with first class honors and have received loads of awards how have all this helped you in terms of publicity and awareness?

I believe myself, my design and spirit. I truly focused on graduate work, worked on my best and wanted to make what I really have sought for. I did not expect those results I got at all. I am very glad to have some people who like and understand my works.

You not only into illustration, but your also very skilled in pattern cutting and you've dabbled into photography too, how important do you think it is for a designer to be able to multitask?

In my opinion, It is not a matter of being able to multitask, the important thing is that what you enjoy sincerely and have fun with. I love illustration, pattern cutting, photography and graphic design and always have fun working on them. Art and design are all connected and I want to interpret my Menswear and thoughts expressing into various ways.

I know the inspiration for your graduate collection was drawn from the 18th century, military and movies but does your cultural roots also play a role in your cuts and silhouettes?

I wanted to experiment with Korean costume at first. However, it didn't work on my concept so I used few costume accessaries which suited on the outfits of my collections. Actually, there are so many beautiful Korean things to play on and I have great ideas to reinterpret them on my own ways. I cannot wait.

Whats next for you? if u look back in 10 yrs time what are the things you would like to have accomplished?

I wish to have started my own label somewhere.

Q&A : Lina Osterman Creative Director Pudel

London based Swedish label Pudel is the brainchild of Founder & Creative Director Lina Osterman. Lina Osterman's cuts are flattering on both men and women in line with the current androgynous mood sweeping mens fashion and style. I had the chance to ask her a few questions about the brand and her new namesake label.

At what point did you realize that fashion design was the career path you wanted to follow?

I've always wanted to express my creativity somehow and I had a big interest in clothing when I was younger.

Why did you decide to study in London as opposed to say Paris, Milan or New York?

I moved away from home at 17 to study a fashion high school in north Sweden, I met a girl there who was studying in London. I had never been there but applied and got in. You worked with Jens Laugesen for sometime and designed knitwear collections, in what ways do you feel the experience has impacted your growth and maturity as a designer creatively?

The work with Jens was great, he is a very talented designer. I first assisted his knitwear designer (Imken) and she thought me a lot of things. When she left Jens & I continued to do the handknit which was a great opportunity for me.

I notice you use a lot of knits in your collections, is this influenced by your previous work under Jens and also your cultural roots?

I am very interested in knitwear. It was also my pathway at Central Saint Martins.

Your new namesake label Lina Osterman, why did you decide to create it and what are the ethos and goals of the label?

When I began to design Pudel I was still studying at St Martins and when we had the collaboration with TOPSHOP in 2005 I decided to take a break from school. Therefore I graduated last year (2008), so my first Lina Osterman collection was my graduate collection. I got a lot of attention from buyers so I decided to start another company where I can express all my creativity.

Q&A with Top Male Models

Ty Ogunkoya was a regular face on the runway at the recently concluded mens fashion weeks. Click Here to read my interview with him. Canadian model Joey Kirchner who is now an editorial darling was also busy during the recently concluded fashion weeks. Click Here to read my interview with him.

Simon Tham who is one of the most prominent models of asian descent at the moment did a few gigs during fashion week too. Click Here to read my interview with him.
English model Isaac Carew is one steadily making his way up in the modelling industry this was his second time in milan and his debut in paris and has only be modelling for a year or less. Click Here to read my interview with him.

Omar Kashoura AW 09 / Interview

I had a chat with London based designer Omar Kashoura of Arabic descent whose work i featured earlier on my blog. It was interesting to know more about the designer and his namesake label.

What impact did winning the Gen Art Menswear award in 2005 have on your career?

The biggest impact other than establishing my brand of course was the change in my bank balance, I got a lump sum of money which was fantastic. Consequently I was also approached by an agent, allowing me to start up the label .

After the Gen Art Award you enjoyed some measure of success by working for Preen, doing some consulting and finally launching your own line but you decided to go back for a masters, what was the main motive?

Creating collections as a young designer comes with many constraints, going back to school lifted these and allowed for me to be as creative as I possibly could. It’s a lonely world at times too so being around like minded people again was also good for my thoughts and self development.

What influence does your cultural roots have on your designs?

The quality and the richness. I suppose you have to feel it for yourself to know!

What were the inspirations for the SS09 & A/W 09 collections?

Each season is a journey for me, an experiment almost to which I seek to find answers. For every season I like to write, as I find words and my imagination more inspiring than a visual image. Therefore for every season I like to write a Narrative. SS09 was about the Man Boy. Analyzing the male form and how the fashion of the body and character have changed over time. With this I played on a character to develop into my brand image. He’s called the ‘Man Boy’ and will remain a part of Omar Kashoura for some time. AW09 was about high society, nouveau riche meets the sloane ranger. Etiquette within the man, and a gentle persuasion to society in these hard times to wear our best every day.

What is the standout feature of any Omar Kashoura Collection?

I suppose at glance it is my use of color. I struggle myself to wear black and find that I design in this way also. Looking closely I guess you could say some of the details I have been developing and carry through from season to season.

Who Am Eye A/W 09/10 & Interview

Retaining Who Am Eye’s familiar monochromatic colour template, the 'And If You Save Yourself' collection is inspired by debt and death; the looming recession and grunge forefather, Kurt Cobain. I caught up with Johnny Leong[r] and Glenn Cameron[l], the geniuses behind Who Am Eye and we talked about the brand, from its beginnings to its future.

How did both of you meet and what gave rise to your decision to start who am eye?

We have known each other since early High School, we met through skateboarding. After High School we always talked about creating a label, but we never really knew where to start, after a few months of trying to figure out what direction we wanted to take we just thought 'fuck it' let's just do it and see how we go..... and 7 seasons later, a few fashion weeks and stores across Australia and New Zealand. We must be doing something right?[laughs].And now we couldn't really imagine doing anything else, we just love experimenting and creating.

What's the unique aesthetic element that's always present in any Who Am Eye collection?

Since the beginning we've always referenced Death, don't ask us why, i think there's just a sub-conscience fascination, or maybe, fear of it. Whether it's printed on a tee or just inspiration behind the concept of the collection, it always translates into the design process, like the 09/10 Collection which is heavily based on the life of the late Kurt Cobain.

Who am eye performed incredibly @ the 08 rosemount Australian fashion show, how hectic and challenging was it to get the collection ready?

We were surprisingly calm, I don't know if it was because we'd never done it before or if we expected it to be way more intense and then it actually turned out to be, although we can't take all the credit as there was a great team helping everyone make it happen. After the show, Who am eye received a lot of publicity through various magazines in the U.S, how has this translated into growth and visibility of the brand?

We didn't really notice it straight away as we were pretty much back to working on the next collection as soon as it was over. We'd have to say that in the last couple of months, we've actually felt it more as we've had more interest from stores, press and stylists (local and international) and late last year we picked up a PR agent in New York (MAO PR), which has been great exposure. It even led to Iman getting a pair of our leggings, which was a huge complement.

Australian fashion is getting more visibility in other parts of the world more than ever, what do you think is the reason behind this?

We think it's the whole lifestyle that Australians give off, that laid back attitude. It's easy going but without loosing site of quality, construction and the overall aesthetic. Also the fact that we're so isolated from the rest of the world means it's hard not to be different.

In about 5-10 yrs where do you want the brand to be in terms of production, revenue and market position?

Well we would definitely like to get involved in a lot more international fashion events/trade shows, and gain far greater exposure on an international level. We'd also like to open our own store in the not so distant future, it would be a great thing to be able to present our entire collections in full under one roof to our customers.

Lagom [Interview]

I had a chat with designers Nette Sandström & Daniel Adams-Ray, creatives behind Swedish label Lagom which i earlier previewed. It was interesting to know more about the young label which was founded in 2007.

What is the brands philosophy?

Creative with a cause. Cultural advancement by challenging the status-quo.

For the spring summer 09 collection the inspiration was an English bicycle race, how much influence does the English lifestyle have on the brand as a whole?

Not very much at all actually! We are pretty confident that the annual Tweed race has got very little to do with life in England today. The word Lagom is hard to translate since it capsules a social behavior often referred to as "typically Swedish". Its origin is often debated, we as young creators like the story with the Vikings.

'When the Vikings took time off from burning and pillaging, they used to gather around the campfire to down a horn of mead. Though their thirst was great after all their exertions, it became a matter of honor for each warrior to ration his intake so that the horn didn’t run dry before everyone had a swig. In other words, one had to think team-wise, or laget om, later shortened to Lagom'.

The SS09 collection was limited to only 3 pieces, what was the main motive behind this?

A lot of smaller brands are forced to close up shop, leaving very little work for those factories actually willing to deal with small production quantities. Sadly enough, our previous producers went bankrupt so we had to re-organize our production completely. Recession means troubles if you run a small company, eventhough our sales are looking better than ever.

How can you describe the typical Lagom Man?

The typical Lagom man is humble and self confident and has in some point of his life listened to Wu-tang.

What are we to expect from the fall/winter 09 collection?

It's titled Equilibrium and is a fusion of Nordic melancholy and American gang culture which inspired the contrasts and the dynamic minimalism of the collection. This collection is a confident manifestation where the gender-neutral and the alterable silhouettes focus on the equality of humans whether they be male or female.

Images from top-bottom: Nette Sandstrom(l), Daniel Adams-Ray(r), Lagom ss09.

Duckie Brown [INTERVIEW]

Steven Cox & Daniel Silver are the creatives behind one of the most fun luxury menswear brands to come out of Newyork, Duckie Brown. Their collections during Newyork men's fashion week can be argued as one of the most anticipated for its theatre and bold aesthetics. I had the privilege of having a chat with them.

When the Duckie Brown label was born, what did you guys intend to add to menswear that you felt was lacking or in shortage?

Duckie Brown started in Sept,2001. At the time we felt there was a lack of interesting menswear designers coming out of New York - We surmised that it was the right time to launch a luxury menswear brand.

When you guys are going through your creative process, what kind of man do you envisage wearing Duckie Brown?

We envision every one being able to enjoy Duckie Brown. There's always something for every man in each Duckie Brown Collection. The proof in the pudding is that we sell to men from the ages of 22 - 80 years old. Apart from the seasons, what other factors are considered in choosing the fabrics you employ in your collections?

We choose the fabrics we love. And we hope the customer will love them to. Most of our fabrics are developed of us especially in Italy, France, Scotland and Japan.

In the long term, do you guys have plans of diversifying your product portfolio?

We are launching Florsheim by Duckie Brown - the Fall 2009 Collection at the end of June 2009. We've taken Florsheim's classic shoes and just turned up the music every so slightly. The colors are amazing - check out the electric blue brogue - The shoes will be available at Barney's NY, Scoop, Odin and select Nordstrom's.

Pictures- top to bottom: Steven Cox & Daniel Silver, Duckie.b ss05, ss09, f/w09.

Jeremy Copeland [GET FAMILIAR]

Jeremy Copeland is a dancer/choreorapher who has danced for some of the biggest names in hip hop like the Ying Yang Twins, Bow Wow, Soulja Boy, D. J Unk , Dem Franchise boys & choreographed stage shows for Whitney Houston, Eve, Gospel Choice Awards and The Holy Hip Hop Awards. I had a chat with him recently and got to know a bit about him.
What else would you be doing if you were not dancing?

When i was living in Atlanta I was attending Bauder College for Fashion Design but when i moved to LA, to further my career in dance i quit. So if I were not dancing I’d be in school pursuing Fashion Full Time.

When did you realize your talent for dancing?

My mother was always over the Dance department at any church that we went to. We moved to Atlanta from NY when I was 10 and at Living Faith Tabernacle in Forest Park my mother and her best friend started a Hip Hop dance team. We performed at different churches but I still knew nothing about "Professional Dancing" as a career. But the moment that i really knew it in me that i wanted to do it was when I went to The Scream Tour Concert and watched Omarion perform. What are the differences between the pressures involved in choreographing for an award show and a music video?

Doing choreography for an Award show is much more stressful. you have that "1" Time to kill it or Flop and people all over the world will see it and it will not only make you look bad but the Artist as well. For a music video, you have the time to do different takes and re-shoot.

What keeps you motivated to continue dancing?

When I wake up in the morning i get out my bed and randomly do a triple turn posse (a ballet term) and walk to the bathroom. Even when I was working at American eagle and i was supposed to be greeting guest I was sneaking behind clothes writing down what i wanted my next choreography Reel to look like. I call dance my first love, it put me through sooo much to get where i am and where i am going and i just cant leave it alone.

You got any plans to branch out artistically?

Well i do plan on pursuing my Fashion Career, getting my Real Estate License, doing some background vocals for people & I am currently in the process of opening my own dance studio with my business partner Tanisha Taylor. I and Tanisha also have a Event Staffing company where we put on different events and showcases and send models and dancers out on castings here in Atlanta. I plan to get into songwriting as well.